THE HOOD RIVER
by
George Drought
The canoeing season on the Hood is not long, there being a time gate of five to eight weeks
depending on ice and weather conditions. The earlier the canoeist can fly in, the better will be their
trip. At this time most of the wild life is down in the valleys. For every week past 1st July there is
a decrease in their chances of seeing that wildlife. The muskox move into the high country and the
caribou continue their migration south. The predators of course follow them.
All distances shown on the map are in kilometres and start at the headwaters of the Hood
river at the western end of Tahikafaaluk Lake . The first 100 kilometres of the river is a series of
long narrow lakes usually not more than one or two kilometres wide but occasionally as much as
three or four kilometres. The lakes are named but not all the names are official, so in addition to
their names they are referred to by their height in metres above sea level. e.g. Lake 414 etc.
Because of the lack of current in the lakes, they tend to retain their ice longer and it is not
uncommon to find them ice locked into early July. Canoeists need to be wary of this and ensure that
the pilot lets them down where shore leads are significant enough, not only for a safe landing, but
also where they continue far enough to ensure fairly uninterrupted paddling.
The highest point on the river is Lake Tahikafaaluk (414). There are some smaller lakes
further on, feeding into Lake Tahikafaaluk, but they are insignificant. It is due west of Bathurst Inlet
and just north of the Arctic Circle. Lake Napatulik (Takiyuak), just SW of Lake Tahikafaaluk, is
often thought to be the start of the river but there is no connecting river or link at all. (In fact it flows
to the Coppermine).
If the plane is able to land at the western end of Lake Tahikafaaluk then it is a great hike to
Lake Napatulik and back.
Hiking on the river is fabulous but this guide does not reflect many of the best hiking areas
simply because the location of wildlife tends to affect a persons perspective on the quality of a hike.
Besides Wilberforce Falls, the Wright River does rate an honorable mention in the area of hiking.
DISCLAIMER
Every degree of accuracy possible has been put into this work by the author. It is
emphasized, however, that subtle changes occur in topography year by year and that major changes
can occur on a daily basis in water levels and conditions on rivers everywhere. The running of
rapids, white water, or moving water, by people in canoes, kayaks or rafts can be considered as a
high risk activity and specifically in the N.W.T. and NUNAVUT where remoteness and cold water add another
dimension to the risk. Therefore the author cannot be held responsible for errors in judgement leading to injuries or fatalities.
Persons attempting to paddle the Hood River must accept personal responsibility for their actions and must be warned that there is no substitution for personal scouting or inspection of every rapid being attempted.
IMPORTANT NOTE
This report by the author has been based on his four descents of the Hood River in the years 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1998 with greatly different water levels, from very high to very low conditions.
HOOD RIVER
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF RAPIDS
REGARDLESS OF THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTIONS
ALL RAPIDS MUST BE SCOUTED
BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO RUN THEM
Marked up maps in 1/50000 scale, showing names of rapids, lakes and all distances can be obtained by contacting
Wilderness Bound Video Productions
LAKE TAHIKAFAALUK (414) meanders through high rocky tundra for 34 km until it ends
abruptly at Ptarmigan Rapid.
PTARMIGAN RAPID Portage R. Gr 2: km 34
Scout and run R. This rapid is very shallow and rocky. It is easy to
get hung up at the start.
DE COCCOLA RAPID Portage L. Gr 3: km 34
This rapid is short and dramatic with a hydraulic and big waves at the
end. Run tight L and eddy L. In LW the approach is from the R. and
stay R of the hydraulic.
WARNER FALLS Portage L. km 35
Unrunnable but the setting is picturesque and beautiful.
WILDERNESS BOUND RAPID Portage L. Gr 2: km 35.5
This rapid is fairly simple. Scout and run L.
LONG RAPID
Section 1 Portage L. Gr 4: km 36
Section 2 Portage L. Gr 2:
The first section of this rapid should be walked. The second section
however, though tricky, is runnable. Start R of centre and then keep
R through the boulder garden and stay R through the run out.
WOLF RAPID Portage L. Gr 4: km 37
A bad ledge near the end of this otherwise reasonable rapid should
make this a mandatory walk.
THE LEDGE Portage L. Gr 4: km 38
Definitely walk this one. In low water however we found that with
careful scouting we could run it at river left of centre.
WOLF LAKE (385) This lake is 10 km long.
BLACK FEATHER RAPID Portage L. Gr 4: km 48
This is a mandatory portage. Though again in very low water we found that we were able to run the bottom half of the rapid. It required ferrying from the left bank, out to the centre of the river, then turning and running the balance
of the rapid at river right, heading slightly to the centre towards the end.
CAVE LAKE (373) is the widest of the lakes, being almost four kilometres wide at one
point. Towards the end of the lake on the north shore at kilometre
58.5 is an interesting cairn or fox trap. It is on a high hill and not
visible from the river. Underneath it with its entrance on the east side
of the hill is a small cave which has either been used as a food cache
or shelter in the past.
WILLOW RAPID Portage L. Gr 1: km 62
An easy rapid. Scout and run L.
LENTZ LAKE (371) is the shortest of the lakes being only seven kilometers long.
KAPOLAK RAPID Portage L. Gr 2: km 69
This rapid is in two parts, each about 400 m with about 300 m
between them.
The first section needs to be run L and there are some fairly big
waves. The second section is a shallow boulder garden and should be
run R. High water could make this rapid more difficult and
challenging.
KAPOLAK LAKE (365) is eleven kilometres long. Three kilometers from Kapolak Rapid is
the first real evidence of a change in topography. A large esker runs
east and west on both sides of the river.
SWIFT No portage. An easy run.
ESKER LAKE (356) The river does its first major change in direction on this lake and
heads due north for sixteen kilometres before turning east again. The
lake is twenty-four kilometres long and is the last major body of
water on the river that can be considered a lake. At the end (km 105)
there are some truly massive eskers that are shown on the map by
contour lines but no esker symbol.
SKULL RAPID Portage R. Gr 5: km 107
This is a mandatory portage.
EASY RAPID No portage. Gr 1: km 109.5
As its name implies this is an easy Gr 1.
BLACK ROCK RAPID Portage R. Gr 3: km 112
This is a long and difficult Gr 3. Start R of centre and then working
slightly to the R look for a distinctive black rock about half way
down and go just R of the rock. As the river turns to the R start
moving L before the turn, then run out the rapid just R of centre to
avoid the big waves. High water makes this rapid a Gr 4 and should
not be attempted. Low water conditions change the situation again
and the river can be scouted and run down the left side. Eddy in when
reaching the turn to the right. Look down the rapid carefully and then
eddy out and run down RR avoiding the large waves at the bottom as
much as possible.
After Black Rock Rapid there are some swifts running in channels between gravel beds. These
gravel beds can change from year to year so there is no preferred
route.
MASON RAPID Portage L. Gr 5: km 119
The scenery at this rapid is superb, but it is a mandatory portage. If
the authors recognition of rapids is correct then the bottom portion
of this rapid is shown on page 92 and 93 of the book Wild Waters
edited by James Raffan and published by Key Porter Books. Don't try
what Gilles Lebreque is trying unless you have comparable skills.
KINGAUNMIUT CHUTES Portage R. Gr 3: km 122
These are two chutes 200 m apart. Though these two chutes are
definitely runnable, do not try, as it would be extremely difficult to
effect a rescue before canoe and people would be swept towards
Kingaunmiut Falls.
KINGAUNMIUT FALLS Portage R. km 123
The beauty of these 25 m falls is breathtaking - just don't go over them.
THE WRIGHT RIVER has its confluence at km 140. It is worth stopping and hiking here.
There is evidence of Inuit tent rings on the plateau to the SW
overlooking the confluence. There are also some interesting
geological formations at the falls on the Wright River.
AT km 147 the river current increases and a series of swifts and Gr 1 water occur
until km 165. These then turn into a series of Gr 2 stretches and
special care needs to be taken at km 170 and 172 where some of the
maneuvering becomes more technical and the waves become a great
deal larger.
RICHARDSON RAPID No Portage. Gr 2: km 173
This rapid is difficult to read from the river, and it appears that the L
route is best. THIS IS NOT SO. Go R and there will be no problems.
This is probably the spot where the Franklin Expedition crossed the river in 1821 when returning to Fort Enterprise. From here food became extremely scarce for them and many of them starved to death.
BOULDER RAPID Portage R. Gr 3: km 176
This rapid, though very technical, can be run tight down the R shore
in most water conditions. When the water is low it is possible to run
it down the centre, but scout it carefully
AT km 177 There is a fairly easy Gr 2 rapid here and then the river returns to
swifts and Gr 1 which continue on and off until km 221.
CARIBOU CROSSING Portage L. Gr 3 to 4:: km 221
This is a major Gr 3 bordering on Gr 4 rapid. In higher water levels
it is a Gr 5 rapid. If it is to be run, it requires great care in scouting.
It is important to back paddle and keep as close to the R shore as
possible through the whole rapid.. Again extreme caution is advised
if the decision is made to run this rapid.
From Caribou Crossing Rapid to the take out above Wilberforce Falls the river drops
continually with numerous swifts, Gr 1 and Gr 2 rapids with the toughest stretch being between km
232 and 234. There are huge waves down through this section and it is very important to ensure that
sprays skirts are fastened securely. Through the big waves at km 234 the best route is basically River
L. Below km 235 the river starts dividing between large gravel pans which it must be assumed are
continually shifting and changing from year to year. So no specific route is recommended. The river
also changes course at km 235 and starts its flow due north to Arctic Sound.
WILBERFORCE FALLS Portage L. km 247.5
The take out for Wilberforce Falls is 1 km south at the south end of
the last gravel pan on the L shore. Do not get drawn into the rapids
at the top of the falls as they are at least Gr 4.
A lot of canoe trips end at Wilberforce Falls. Flight pick ups can be arranged on the large
esker 1 Km to the west of the falls. It is also possible to arrange with Bathurst Inlet Lodge for pickup
by boat at Portage Bay. This necessitates leaving the majority of gear on the esker for flight pickup
and hiking about 11 km overland to Portage Bay. You will need to backpack necessary camping gear
for camping at the Lodge.
WILBERFORCE RAPIDS Portage L. Gr 2 to 3: Km 251
This rapid can be scouted from the left shore fairly easily. The run is
mostly down the centre. Could definitely be challenging in high
water with big waves to contend with.
From Wilberforce Rapids to Ragged Rock Falls the river flows swiftly with shoal type rapids and
some Gr 1 rapids. The biggest change is in the terrain. Good campsites are not nearly as plentiful
as the coast is approached..
RAGGED ROCK FALLS Portage L. Km 262
The rock at this falls is very jagged and rough. Though Franklin in his
overland expedition camped here in 1821. We found it most
unsuitable. Instead we headed for the mouth of the James River,
where the camping is better.
HEPBURN RAPID Portage L. Gr 2 to 3: Km 285
There is lots of flat rock at river left which enables paddlers to scout
the rapid well. The first corner at the top of the rapid should either
be carried around or lined. From the eddy below the corner the rest
of the rapid can be run fairly easily.
From this point it is a straight forward paddle to the Arctic Ocean. If you are expecting a
plane pickup in this vicinity. Do not paddle to the ocean as winds can delay pick up by days. Stay
instead in the shelter of the river valley. There is a reasonable campsite at Km 287. If there is a real
desire to see the ocean. Then a 2 km hike over the hill and down to Bailey Bay should fulfil this
desire.
INTERNATIONAL RIVER RATING SCALE
Central to the rating of rapids and hence rivers is the International River Rating Scale.
However, it should be treated with caution as it can be very subjective and does not take into account
such factors as remoteness, air temperature and most importantly water temperature. Nor does it take
into account a paddler's individual skill.
SWIFT
Though not technically included in the International scale, the category of "swift" is a useful
one that will be referred to frequently in this guide. A swift is fast water with some small waves but
almost no maneuvering required. Generally easier than Grade 1.
GRADE 1
Moving Water with a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions.
GRADE 2
Easy rapids with waves up to one meter high and wide, clear channels that are obvious
without scouting. Some maneuvering is required.
GRADE 3
Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow
passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore.
GRADE 4
Long, difficult rapids with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in
very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore often necessary and conditions make rescue difficult.
Generally not possible for open canoes. Paddlers in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to do
the Eskimo roll.
GRADE 5
Extremely difficult, long and very violent rapids with highly congested routes which nearly
always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult and there is significant hazard
to life in event of a mishap. Ability to do the Eskimo roll is essential for kayaks and closed canoes.
GRADE 6
Difficulties of Grade 5 carried to the extreme of navigability. Nearly impossible and very
dangerous. For teams of experts only, after close study and with all precautions taken.